Chanel

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The House of Chanel, more commonly known as Chanel, is a Parisian fashion house in France founded by Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel (b.1883 - d.1971). According to Forbes, the privately held House of Chanel is jointly owned by Alain Wertheimer and Gerard Wertheimer who are the grandsons of the early (1924) Chanel partner Pierre Wertheimer.

History

Founded in 1910, the small shop selling ladies headwear had moved to the upmarket Rue Cambon within a year. The house became especially famous with the elegant little black dress, tweed suit, and its signature No. 5 fragrance, which debuted in 1921. Ernext Beaux later went on to create many other perfumes for Chanel, including No. 22 (1922), Cuir de Russie (1927), Gardenia (1925), and Bois des Iles (1926), all of which were reintroduced as boutique exclusives around 1986.

Chanel revolutionized haute couture fashion by completely replacing the traditional corset with the comfort and casual elegance of simple suits and dresses. (Although fashion historians have sufficient evidence to believe that Paul Poiret, Coco Chanel's early rival, was probably the first designer to do so.[citation needed]) She introduced to the world her signature cardigan jacket in 1925 and signature “little black dress” in 1926, introducing a more sultry and seductive definition to “sexy.” She had numerous other major successes that changed the fashion industry including the ever popular "'Chanel suit'", an elegant creation composed of a knee-length skirt and trim, boxy jacket, traditionally made of woven wool with black sewing trim and gold buttons, worn with large costume-pearl necklaces. Elite women of high societies around the world began to flock to the now legendary Rue Cambon boutique to commission couture outfits from her. The House of Chanel became an icon of elegance and from then on, the name “Chanel” became synonymous to elegance, wealth, and elitism, as well as the ultimate sign of French high class, la coquetterie.

After No. 5, Coco Chanel's fashions became even more well-known and were purchased by the high flyers of London and Paris society alike. Chanel took to living at the Hôtel Ritz Paris, and her suite of residence has become famous and is now named the "Coco Chanel Suite."

Chanel is also known for its quilted fabric which also has a "secret" quilting pattern sewn at the back to keep the material strong. This material is used for clothing and accessories alike. The brand is now headed by German-born designer Karl Lagerfeld, who had previously designed for the House of Fendi, where his most memorable achievement was the creation of the signature "FF" logo print (referred to as Zucca) commonly used on handbags.

The Coco Chanel Era

Coco Chanel, founder of the House of Chanel, began her fashion career in 1910. She heralded new designs and revolutionized the fashion industry by going “back to basics,” incorporating elegance, class, and originality. Under her tight reign from 1910-1971, Coco Chanel held the title as ‘Chief Designer’ until her death on January 10, 1971.

1910-1932

In 1910, Chanel opened a shop, under the name of ‘Chanel Modes’, at 21 rue Cambon in Paris, to create hats. Her hats were worn by famous French actresses who helped establish her reputation. Chanel introduced in 1913 women’s sportswear at her new boutique in Deauville, France. Her line of jersey clothes changed not only women’s relationships with their bodies, but also with their way of life, or the French savoir vivre. It became an immediate success.

Her fashion became known in 1915 throughout France for prioritising freedom of movement by not featuring ostentation and redundancy in her designs. She affirmed the House’s style of authentic, fluid and comfortable lines. She then opened her first couture house in Biarritz, France, to introduce her other fashion lines.

1921 saw the introduction of the first Chanel perfume, No. 5. It was internationally popular with women of high society in particular. “La Société des Parfums Chanel" was founded in 1924 to produce and sell perfumes and beauty products.

1924 also greeted the first Chanel costume jewellery collection that Harper’s Bazaar described as “one of the most revolutionary designs of our time.”

In 1926, Chanel introduced the ‘little black dress,’ greeted by Vogue as the ‘new uniform of the modern woman.’ That same year, Chanel introduced the classic tweed. Inspired by visits to Scotland with the Duke of Westminster, Chanel was inspired and created her first tweed suits.

Chanel premiered an exhibition of jewellery in 1932 dedicated to the diamond. Several of the pieces, including the ‘Comet’ and ‘Fountain’ necklaces were re-introduced by Chanel in 1993.

1935-1981

Chanel reached the peak of her fame in 1935 when she employed 4,000 workers and owned numerous buildings throughout France. In 1939, she retired from fashion design and closed her popular couture house, prompting protests from New York high society to the Parisian aristocracy. Only her perfumes and accessories were sold at Chanel’s boutiques.

Coming out of fashion retirement at the age of 71, Chanel re-opened the couture house. Her first show received international acclaim, with her signature jersey suit being introduced that bore her favourite number: 5. In 1955, Chanel introduced the quilted bag with the shoulder strap, a bag that shook the fashion world. It became so popular the first year, she had to decline numerous requests due to the lack of time to painstakingly manufacture each one by her skilled artisans. The bag is known in industry shorthand as the 2.55, after the month and year it was introduced. That same year, Chanel launched her first eau de toilette for men, Pour Monsieur.

In 1957 at the Fashion Awards in Dallas, Chanel and her spring collection received the Fashion Oscar. The fashion world applauded her as the ‘most influential designer of the twentieth century.’

After dozens of other internationally acclaimed collections, Chanel introduced in 1970 a new perfume by the name of No. 19, after her birthday date. On January 10, 1971, Coco Chanel died, ending an era of revolutionary fashion that would still be the classic model fashion designers today find inspiration in. Her posthumous spring collection enjoyed considerable success.

However, her influence did not pass with her death. Other posthumous projects came to light a few years later. In 1974, the House of Chanel launched Cristalle eau de toilette, which was in the workings when Coco Chanel was alive. 1978 saw the launch of the first non-couture, prêt-à-porter line and worldwide distribution of accessories. In 1981, Chanel launched a new eau de toilette for men, Antaeus.

The Karl Lagerfeld Era

Karl Lagerfeld would become one of the most iconic designers of recent times. With his flashy sense of style combined with a strong vision of a new Chanel, Lagerfeld brought the couture house to new levels, and is still continuing to woo and awe the fashion world.

1983-2004

1983 was the year of change for the House of Chanel. It was the year Karl Lagerfeld was appointed ‘Artistic Director’ for Chanel Fashion, including haute couture, prêt-à-porter, and accessories. He shocked the fashion world by changing Chanel’s fashion lines from the predictable same styles that greeted world year after year to funky cuts and eye capturing designs.

In 1984, the House of Chanel launched the fragrance, Coco, in honour of the late Coco Chanel. In 1986, the House of Chanel struck a deal with watchmakers and in 1987, the first Chanel watch made its debut.

1990 saw the launched of Egoïste for men. The first collection of fine jewellery was launched in 1993 (not to be confused with the already existing costume jewellery line), in the spirit and style of Chanel, in the heart of Place Vendôme in Paris.

1996 greeted the launch of Allure fragrance and due to its immense popularity, a men’s version, Allure Homme was launched in 1998.

The House of Chanel launched its first skin care line, PRÉCISION in 1999. That same year, Chanel launched a new travel collection, and under a license contract with Luxottica, introduced a line of sunglasses and eyeglass frames.

The new millennium saw the launch of the first unisex watch for Chanel, the J12, a style that has reached iconic fame with its clean cuts and fusion of masculinity and femininity to form a revolutionary watch. To please the younger fashionistas, Chanel introduced Coco Mademoiselle and an ‘In-Between Wear’ in 2003.

2002 saw the launch of Chance fragrance, with a scent of surprise and glamour. The House of Chanel founded the Paraffection company that gathered the five Ateliers d’Art: Desrues for ornamentation, Lemarié for feathers and camellias, Lesage for embroiderer, Massaro for shoemaker, and Michel for millinery. A prêt-à-porter collection proposing their know-how was designed by Karl Lagerfeld. It is now traditionally presented each December.

2003 saw such an immense popularity of Chanel haute couture that the company founded a second atelier on rue Cambon.

The No. 5 perfume had always received free campaigns from actresses and starlets that used it daily. Marilyn Monroe famously answered a reporter’s question by saying the only thing she wore to bed was two drops of Chanel No.5. But in 2004, CHANEL launched a new No. 5 campaign with Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel. With the launch of new handbags, Ligne Cambon, an advertising campaign was created featuring French actress and pop star, Vanessa Paradis. In 2005, Paradis also modelled the New Mademoiselle handbag line. A very popular perfume now is Coco Mademoiselle; a very feminine scent.

2005-Present

The Luxury Line, introduced in 2006 featuring a metal chain embedded in the leather, is one of the most desired "it" bags of the moment.

The House of Chanel, under the leadership of Karl Lagerfeld, has defined the style and fashion of Chanel as being the five essentials: audacious, perfectionist, unique, passionate, and visionary.

The Iconic Logotype

The Chanel logotype is an overlapping double-C, one facing forwards the other facing backwards. This derives from the name Coco Chanel. "Coco" is the nickname frequently used by Chanel founder, Gabrielle Chanel. The logotype was not trade-marked until during the first openings of Chanel stores.

Chanel is currently dealing with illegal use of the double-C logotype on cheaper goods, especially fake handbags. Countries said to be producing great numbers of fake Chanel handbags are Vietnam, Thailand, and China. An authentic Chanel handbag retails around $1, 500, while a fake usually costs around $100, creating a demand for the signature style at a cheaper price.

Chanel No 5- The Film

Recently, Chanel has launched a new advertising film that casts Nicole Kidman as the new face of Chanel No.5. It was directed and produced by Baz Luhrmann (director of Moulin Rouge) and was shot on location in Sydney. Kidman takes on the role of the most famous woman in the world while Brazilian actor Rodrigo Santoro plays a struggling writer who falls in love with Kidman.